Re: Padded shoulders (was: Re: Padded jacks sleeve construction)

[ATECH AG]

HI Christian

Since it would be unlikely that a mail shirt would be worn without any further protection, the "puff" sleeve will always be an advantage. Firstly, it provides an extra reservoir of material to aid in lifting the arm (if properly made, the doublet will sit skin tight around the torso, requiring a large degree of flexibility in this area to allow the wearer to raise his arm above his head). Secondly it can be stuffed with some hard padding, so that the area acts as a shock absorber for a plate or chain defence on top of it (most head blows if deflected by the helmet will land on this area). Thirdly, like all fashionable items, it makes the wearer look larger and more powerful.

The "puffs" shouldn't be too big, a layer 25-30mm thick is more than enough, and shouldn't hamper a mail shirt.

Regards

John

Christian Folini wrote:

Hi there,

This brings me to a question about arming doublets.
If one of these lightely padded doubleta were to be worn
under a suit of mail with arms. Would it be useful
to have puff shoulders. Or would this be a handicap when
worn with mail?

any insight appreciated,

Christian

On Tue, Jul 20, 2004 at 05:56:30PM +0200, Mathieu Harlaut wrote:
> Hi Hugo,
>
> The jack described in the so called "ordinances" about the jacks is not
> necessarily the same type of jacks that the one reproduced in the book.
> For example, when reading the description made for  Louis XI, it seems
> that this jack doesn't have any puff around the shoulders . There was
> many different design of jack and the ones that we know are but a few.
> We don't even know what the jack from the ordinances really looked
> liked or if the sleeves of the one from the reliquary of St Ursula had
> the same amount of layer (the same type that the one in Gerry's book).
>
> Anyway, I would guess that the stitching is covered by an extra layer
> of cloth or that the layers are sufficiently hold together by the
> stitching of the shoulder , the puff and the cuff.
>
> Hope it helps,
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mathieu
>
>
>
>
> Le 20 juil. 04, à 16:40, Hugo Tremblay a écrit :
>
> >Hello,
> >
> >This is a question for those who tried to recreate the padded jack as
> >desribed in Dragon #3. This, as well as the ordinance referred to,
> >mentions that the sleeves must be of the same strength. A question
> >arise about the "quilting" of those sleeves. (I will use the term
> >quilting knowing that it is not technically a quilt, but I can't think
> >of anty other words for this type of stitching: sorry for the
> >inconvenience.)
> >
> >On many reconstructions, including those pictured in M. Embleton's
> >books, jacks are shown having unquilted sleeves. However, if those
> >sleeves are in fact constructed as the body, how are the layers kept
> >from shifting inside the actual sleeve? Does the sleeve construction
> >using smaller pieces than the body remove the need for this supporting
> >quilting?
> >
> >Any insight in this matter will be greatly appreciated!
> >Hugo
> >
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>
>

--
Und will diese Welt mich bestreiten, ich lass' es wohl geschehen.
Ich komm' aus anderen Zeiten und hoff' in andere zu gehen.
--- Grillparzer