Re: Pattern for doublet

["Alexander Graff"]

Hello,

What you see in my second picture is not really the lining (it has not yet
been added in the picture), but rather the interlining - added layers of
linen between the outer cloth and the lining to add stiffness to the gament.
I've just tacked the interlining layers together to stop them from sliding
around inside the gament, then stiched down the outer cloth edges on the
inside to avoid bulkiness around the seams. The actual lining could
absolutely be attached the way you describe.
I'd like to add that the whole interlining thing that I've done on this
doublet is in no way the "right" way to do it, it is an experiment to try
and achieve proper shape and function. It seems to work out pretty well,
though.

Alex


> Thank you Alex and Mathieu for sharing your knowledge.
> I was wondering about the buttons on Seegras pattern. You can find more
> information in The Development of Costume,  Tarrant, Naomi, ISBN:
0415080193.
> I guess that the original drawings are taken out of that book.
>
> But know to my question. I´d like to try to describe my problem in a
foreign
> language and hope that it is clear enough.
> Alex your way to connect the linning with the outer fabric is totally
> different to the modern technique. Was it done always in that way or is it
possible
> to sew the two layers together on the left side, turn it over and fix the
> seams close to the edge with a simple stich?
>
> Does anybody has a good recommendation for sources about sewing techniques
> (in general stiching and seaming)?
>
> Thanks for help and sorry for silly asking
> Rita
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > It is a bit difficult to explain without drawing on paper as I speak,
but
> > I'll do my best.
> >
> > 1. You need four separate collar pieces, two on each side of the front
and
> > two on the back, extending down to a V or U shape.
> > The pieces will look roughly like this:
> > http://www.olofsgillet.org/doublet/collar_pattern.JPG
> > (what you see here is actually the interlining for my collar, but it
> > serves
> > to show the pattern).
> > As you can see, the connecting seams of the collar are curved in such a
> > way
> > that it makes the collar snug around the neck, gradually sloping upwards
> > and
> > following the shape of the body. The side seams connects to the shoulder
> > seams of the main doublet.
> > When put together (without lining) the collar looks like this from the
> > inside:
> > http://www.olofsgillet.org/doublet/collar_attached.JPG
> > As you can see, the actual shoulder seam is very narrow - the opening
for
> > the sleeves extend over the shoulder ball. You probably have to make
your
> > own collar pattern based on the shape of your neck - trial and error
with
> > paper and tape works best.
> >
> > 2. I am not sure what you mean. However, it is important that the
sleeves
> > start on the inside of the shoulder balls - so that, when you raise your
> > arm
> > the body of your doublet is not lifted upwards. Since it is attached to
> > the
> > hose at the lower end, that would result in poor mobility.
> >
> > 3. You probably need a waistseam. The upper and lower pieces need to be
> > curved as well, to accentuate the shape. People sometimes complain that
> > they
> > have too much of a belly to have a proper waistseam, but anyone can, and
> > should have it. There is no belly on the back of your body no matter how
> > big
> > you are, and the waistseam does wonders for the shape of the back. On
the
> > front, the waistseam should simply slope down underneath the belly.
> > The waistseam serves another purpose as well: if it is properly
tailored -
> > resting on the hip bones - it takes the pressure of the hose much like a
> > belt in modern pants. So in a hot day, you can take off your doublet,
tie
> > the arms around your waist - but leave the laces at the waistseam in
> > place.
> > Your hose will still be held up perfectly!
> >
> > 4. Not really that I've seen, part of the problem is that a doublet has
to
> > be highly tailored to a specific body, making a general pattern quite
> > useless if you are not skilled in tailoring. Experimenting is probably
the
> > way to go, although there are some general guidelines other than what
I've
> > mentioned here that can be useful. An article for Dragon is in the
> > works...
> >
> > I hope it turns out well,
> > Alex
> >
> > > Here is the list of issues I would like to resolve:
> > >
> > > 1. How do you make the collar fit the opening and be snug around the
> > neck
> > at
> > > the same time?
> > > 2. Are the sleeves tapered from the shoulder ball, or are those two
> > sperate
> > > peices attached later on?
> > > 3. How can you get the classis hourglass shape without resorting to
> > divide
> > > the pieces into 4 lower pieces atached at the waist? No amount of
> > tailoring
> > > gave me the results I expected...
> > > 4. Are there any acceptable patterns for the doublet out there, or is
> > > modification/experimentation
> > > the best way?
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info, as always!
> > >
> > > Hugo
> > >
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>
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