Re: Hosen

["Dave Key"]

Kim,

I haven't seen Sarah's patterns so I can't comment on their accuracy or suitability. You didn't mention exactly where the hose ripped ... this would help in understanding the problem. However the key to good hose is a good fit and good elasticity in the weave. Generally speaking the cut of the cloth will make more difference than the cloth itself. The fit should be appropriate to the wear intended. For example if you look at many illustrations of labourers you will notice a distinct "bulider's bum" (I don't wish to know the American equivalent nor do I wish to consider how that will translate into the many languages of the Companie ;-) ) between the top of the hose and the bottom of the doublet. This is the result of loosening the rear points for strenuous exercise. It also illustrates that mid-later C15th northern European hose reached to the hip rather than the waist ... both of these will improve mobility without compromising f!
 it.

Having neatly ignore the cloth itself ... I'll return to it. Traditionally hose are cut on the 'bias' that is at 45 degrees to the weave (or thereabouts ... hold the cloth a pull, you'll find the exact angle) , and using a twill (e.g. 2 x 2 ) weave rather than the simple over-under tabby (1x1) weave of broadcloths etc. Both the bias and twill weave ( plus, I am informed, the natural increased elasticity of hand spun & woven wool ) all combine to produce a fairly stretchy woollen cloth without resort to modern synthetics or jerseys ... or 'specialist-no-longer-obtainable-wool-from-old-varieties-of-sheep' as some insist on. 

In England the 'classic' hose cloth was Kersey, a twill woollen cloth ... but don't get too hung up on the fabric. Inventories from tailors who made hose show a wide variety of cloth being used ... and some illustrations of the poor show ripped hose (esp at the knee) and just about every surviving English hose from the C14th-C15th is not cut on the bias ... so with almost any woollen cloth would be possible ... but the better quality and more elastic/stretchy the fabric the better.

I am trying to pull together information on hose so if anyone finds any references please do forward them to me, as all help is much appreciated and John might actually get the article!

Cheers
Dave

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